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GoLapse Advanced User Guide

Some miscellaneous tips:

  • Shoot more frames than you need. It can often make the footage smoother and sharper and if you need it, stabilization much more effective
  • Use with the quickest shutter time you can if not using the golapse rail, you can always add motion blur later, but you’ll never be able to remove it once it’s there
  • Use a wider focal length than usual if you have the option to, this gives you flexibility with cropping and stabilization since the resolution of still pictures captured by the camera is likely much higher than the resolution you’re outputting video to
  • Avoid objects that take up the entire frame passing by the camera if you plan on using post stabilization- this can cause the software to lose track of what it was looking at.

Solutions to various problems users of GoLapse, myself included, have run into

The GoLapse is shaky when moving, even when there is no wind

Caused by the tension of the cord- it could be too tight, creating a resonant effect that makes the camera want to dance. Play around with how tight it is and you will see a huge difference.

The GoLapse is shaking in the wind, the objects the cord is tied to are shaking, or people are constantly running into it

While you can try to change your shot so that these things aren’t happening as much, often it’s better to stabilize the footage in software, that way you can just worry about the visuals and not which way the wind is blowing. The footage you shoot works well with software stabilization since it’s moving in a fairly linear way. Here are some tutorials for various editing programs to help:

After Effects/Premiere Pro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYZ5Fi9NSY0

iMovie: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WU6ZGUSxdl4

Final Cut Pro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eJ30_r_Gvo

The final footage is shaky even when I have tried all of the solutions above, and software stabilization doesn’t fully correct it

Caused by optical image stabilization in your camera or lens. The camera is trying to keep the image as sharp as possible by shifting around the optics, but in doing so is upsetting the natural motion of the camera. This motion often can’t even be corrected by software stabilization because of how unnatural it is. Thankfully, this feature can be disabled on every lens and camera I’ve seen with it. Just remember to turn it back on before you go out and shoot by hand!

My camera is too light or is weighted in such a way that it's difficult to keep it balanced (level with the horizon)

I made an adapter to shift the camera forward a bit for a customer that ran into this problem, I'm happy to send one to you for free. Send me an email at Joe@GoLapse.xyz!